How to Visit Étretat’s White Cliffs: A Couple’s Guide to France’s Alabaster Coast

Underrated Lesser Known Places in France

France has a plethora of iconic beautiful places to visit. There’s obviously everything that is Paris, Versailles, and the French Riviera. But there is a place that not many travelers outside of France know of. In the picturesque region along the coast of Normandy beyond Mont Saint-Michel are towering white cliffs that plunge into the wild English Channel below. Here, waves crash against natural rock arches while the salty breeze tugs at your hair. That place is Étretat, France, a slice of Normandy that’s been calling to my husband and me for ages. We absolutely love idyllic landscapes, and the Alabaster Coast, with its 87 miles of chalky cliffs, is high on our list of places to go to next in France. Étretat is the kind of place that screams romance and adventure, and it gives a sort of romantic Prince Edward’s Island from Anne of Green Gables feel.

In this guide, you’ll learn everything you need to know on how to visit Étretat’s white cliffs to make your trip your own. I’ll be covering hiking trails, sea adventures, and the easiest train routes to get to Étretat from Paris or Rennes. On y va (let’s go)!

Why Étretat’s White Cliffs Cannot be Missed

The Alabaster Coast

The Alabaster Coast stretches 87 miles between the Seine and Somme estuaries (rivers). These wide regions where the river meets the sea are where the water gets all brackish and dramatic. Étretat sits smack in the middle, showing off some of the coast’s most lovely features. The Porte d’Aval arch rises 51 meters high above the sea, and it is a rare geological find in nature. Then there is La Manneporte, an even bigger arch near Jambourg Beach that feels like it’s daring the waves to take a swing at it. And don’t sleep on the Needle, a 70-meter high chalk spike jutting out of the sea like something from a fantasy novel. Walking along the cliffs or peering down from above will make you feel tiny in the best way possible.

A Quick Geology Crash Course

These cliffs aren’t just pretty, they’re a delightful sight created over years and years of the earth changing. Way back when several million years ago, Étretat’s cliffs formed underwater during the Cretaceous period. Built from the skeletons of ancient sea critters that turned into silica, the structure hardened and turned into chalk over millions of years.

Art and Romance

Artists have been obsessed with Étretat since forever. Claude Monet and other Impressionist artists couldn’t get enough of how the light dances off the white cliffs and ever changing water. In fact, their paintings helped make the region famous and have encouraged others to visit the area. Even French writers have been inspired by Étretat. Maurice Leblanc’s slick thief Arsène Lupin pulls off heists in Étretat in his work The Hollow Needle. You can even visit a museum in Étretat for the fictional character in what used to be Leblanc’s home in Le Clos Arsène, Maison Maurice Leblanc.

Why Couples Should Visit Étretat’s White Cliffs

There’s something special about Étretat that makes it perfect for couples who love to travel just the two of them. Wander along the pebble beach at dusk, witness the best outlooks over the sea from the tops of cliffs, or just sit on a bench quietly together and listen to the roar of the foamy sea below. Visiting the region helps you slow down and wind down from the hustle and bustle of Paris or other major cities. Time in Étretat will help you relax and take in the calm and beauty the world has to offer. It’s the perfect romantic place to rest and rejuvenate together.

How to Experience Étretat’s White Cliffs

Sea Adventures

Want to get up close and personal with those arches? Take to the water! While you cannot go under the arches, kayaking or paddleboarding lets you glide right by Porte d’Aval and La Manneporte. If you’re feeling extra adventurous, book a speedboat tour and let the wind whipping through your hair as the cliffs looming overhead. Check out local outfitters in Étretat for rentals or guided trips.

Hiking Trails for Epic Views

For the best vantage points, grab some sturdy closed-toe shoes and tackle the local trails. The GR 21 is your go-to: it’s a long-distance trail that hugs the Alabaster Coast and dishes out panoramic cliff-top wonder. Pack a picnic (croissants and cheese obviously) and turn it into a mid-hike date. The trail has some steep parts, so take it slow if you’re not a hardcore trekker. Another solid hiking option is the Sentier des Douaniers which is an old customs path with a gritty history of smugglers dodging the law. It winds along the coast too, and provides incredible views of the Needle and beyond. Both trails are open year-round and are incredible for couples who love a good walk with a story.

Étretat’s White Pebble Beach

Étretat’s white pebble beach is a must for your trip. It’s free to plop down, spread out a blanket, and watch the cliffs and sea do their thing. The pebbles are smooth but firm so they’re great for skipping stones if you’re into that. Just a heads-up though, steer clear of the restricted zones right under the cliffs. Erosion’s no joke, and falling rocks can ruin your day (or worse). Stick to the safe areas and you’ll have a low-key cozy afternoon along the sea.

More Things to do in Étretat

Don’t skip Les Jardins d’Étretat on the eastern cliff. These Asian-inspired gardens are definitely one of a kind with its many sculpted plants and various sculptures. What makes the gardens so scenic is that as you tour the gardens, you have perfect views of the bay and cliffs down below. It’s a peaceful detour after all that hiking or boating. Pair Les Jardins d’Étretat with a quick museum stop to Musée du patrimoine d’Étretat, a small heritage spot that dives into the cliffs’ and town’s history and cultural significance.

How to Visit Étretat’s White Cliffs

From Paris

Paris to Étretat is a breeze if you plan it right. Take the train from Paris Saint-Lazare to Bréauté-Beuzeville. It takes about two hours. From there, grab either the bus straight to Étretat in 52 minutes or connect trains to Etretat Normandie Grand Val station. The whole trip clocks in at just under three hours and costs $35–$80, depending on how early you snag your tickets. I suggest you use Trainline or SNCF which is one of the major French railway trains. You can easily make a visit to Étretat a day trip if you’d like or stretch it out into several days away from Paris.

From Rennes

While Rennes is a better go between for parts of the Normandy coast like Mont Saint-Michel or Saint-Malo, Paris is a lot closer to Étretat. If you’re coming from Rennes, it’s about 5 to 6 hours with a couple of changes, usually at Caen or Le Havre. Tickets run between 77 and 180 euros, but you can lock in the lower end by booking early through SNCF. There are only two trains a day, so it won’t work as well as a day trip.

Other Starting Points

Are you in a city or town closer to Étretat? Le Havre’s just an hour away by bus. If you’re farther out in either Lyon or Marseille, take the TGV first to Paris and then follow the Paris route from up above.

Final Thoughts

So, what are you waiting for? Grab your significant other, purchase those train tickets, and make Étretat your next weekend trip in France. Where are you headed next? Let me know down below!

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